
Corporate camp sites, Euro-techno discos, communal Agadoo – the list of
continental camping faux pas is longer than the Channel tunnel. Yet,
contrary to popular belief, France is blessed with an enviable selection of
small, characterful places for pitching up: clifftop camps with cracking
views, remote farms tucked away in the countryside, lazy, shady riverside
hang-outs and a bunch situated right on top of some great places to eat and
drink. Just don’t forget to leave room in the boot of the car for a case or
two of the local wine on the way home.
Unless stated, prices are per night, for pitch/adult/child
A TENT WITH A VIEW
ROMARINS, Èze: it’s perched in the hills near Monaco; you can’t
buy views like these, even if you’ve just broken the bank at Monte Carlo.
Pitch your tent among the rosemary and olive trees, sit back and enjoy
peering over Cap Ferrat and the Esterel, with millionaires’ yachts cruising
the Med and the smell of warm money wafting along the coast. There’s no
swimming pool, no kiddies’ club, no loud entertainment – just chilled
refinement. If the roulette tables at the casino have been Ekind to you,
take a trip to the nearby medieval hilltop village of E`ze. After a walk in
the Jardin Exotique, full of cacti and other rarities, you can visit the
Michelin-starred restaurant at Château Eza (www.chateaueza.com) to blow your
winnings.
www.campingromarins.com; from
£12.50 per night for two
LE GRAND CHAMP, Chamonix: jagged, white-tipped peaks surround this site
and create an almost private valley. The beautiful terraced gardens boast
neat, grassy pitches separated by a jumble of trees, bushes and hedges, all
overlooked by the brooding granite spires of the Aiguille du Midi. This site
isn’t so much on the doorstep of Mont Blanc as making itself comfortable on
the sofa in the front room. You know all about the nearby town of Chamonix
as a winter resort, but in summer, mountain-biking, rafting, rock-climbing
and abseiling will goad you into activity. But you could equally well just
sit and breathe in the mountain air, feasting on the views.
00 33 5 62 92 48 92; £3.30/£3.50/£1.70
LES TILLEULS, Gèdre: the valley views from Les Tilleuls, 3,000ft
up in the Pyrenees, are chocolate-box stuff. Old stone houses are scattered
around the deep, green gorges of Campbielh, Coumely and the Cirque de
Gavarnie like faded Lego bricks. The site has four terraces to pitch on, so
everyone gets a slice of the view, though you may prefer the sheltering
shade of the trees when the summer sun is at its fiercest. Just be careful
where you put your feet – your eyes will be permanently fixed on the view.
00 33 5 62 29 19 44; from £8 for two adults
GREAT GOURMANDISING
LA BROUQUERE, Gondrin: you can’t go wrong with a camp site in an old
winery in the Gers that has only six pitches and the motto: “Arrive as a
guest and leave as a friend.” With a pool-cum-hot tub, a terraced patio, a
gorgeous bijou home and fields and fields of vines and sunflowers, you’ve
the makings of the quintessential French site. But the real attraction for
gourmands is that this is foie gras country. Well, actually, the whole of
France is foie gras country, but here you can visit La Ferme du Cassou (www.
fermeducassou.com), which offers a tour of its pâté-production
facilities and a sampling of all things duck. From omelettes and sausages to
tarts and jams – you name it, there’s duck in it. Add in a quantity of the
locally produced armagnac and you’ll be in serious need of a postprandial
walk. Or maybe just a waddle.
www.brouquere.com; from
£3/£2.30/£1.90 (ages 6 and under)
LES ORMES, St Étienne de Villeréal: inspired by a luxury tent
hotel in Tanzania, Les Ormes has 25 African desert numbers arranged in an
elm forest. It’s a bit tasty, with rattan loungers and a designer pool, but
the touch that’ll have purists spitting is the comfy spring beds. With fresh
linen. The nearby town of Bergerac is at the centre of a wine-making region
boasting 12 appellations contrôlées (red, white and rosé).
Hunt down your favourite tipple with La Route des Vins de Bergerac, a map of
the picturesque vineyards, all set against backdrops of castles, paper mills
and old stone-walled villages, and make sure you sample the region’s real
delicacy: the sweet dessert wine made from sauvignon and semillon grapes at
Château Monbazillac (00 33 5 53 63 65 00). If all that viniculture works up
a bit of an appetite, there’s an eight-course banquet to be had at the
Château Les Merles (www.lesmerles.com);
or try Le Vieux Logis (www.vieux-logis.com),
a Michelin-starred restaurant in Tremolat.
www.campinglesormes.com;
£7.60/£4.60/£2.70 (ages 1-7)
DOMAINE LE POTEAU, Castlenau d’Auzan: you’ll get a real feel for
agricultural France as you pass tractors chugging along the tree-lined roads
on your way here. Set in the heart of the Gers’ bountiful wine- and
armagnac-producing country, this Dutch-run site grows enough grapes in the
backyard to produce 20,000 bottles a year. You’ll soon spot the vines behind
the owner’s house, then lose sight of them again as you pitch your tent in
the sprawling garden, so full of shrubbery and small trees, you’re unlikely
to see your neighbours. There’s a covered communal dining area and a cute
terrace bar; and, three times a week the owners prepare a four-course meal
for their guests, with liberal quantities of their own white wine.
www.le-poteau.com; £12 per night for
two
WATER, WATER EVERYWHERE
LES CRIQUES DE PORTEILS, Argelès-sur-Mer: sun, sea, sand and...
sangria? Well, this site on the Mediterranean, south of Perpignan, is in
what used to be North Catalonia, and it retains much of its Franco-Spanish
feel, with ochre-painted buildings, street signs in Catalan and frequent
strains of flamenco. A spread of trees keeps the camp well hidden from the
road, while its seaward edge is handsomely marked by an old stone wall that
undulates along the squat cliffs. The site overlooks three pebble beaches,
solely for the use of campers, onto which the Med’s quiet waters lap. If you
fancy something a bit wetter and wilder, there’s an English-speaking diving
school at the happening port of Argelès-sur-Mer.
www.lescriques.com; from
£14.50/£4.60/£3 (under5s)
CAMPING LA VENDETTE, Île de Noirmoutier: although it’s only just
south of Brittany, this island on the Atlantic coast is like a little slice
of the Mediterranean, a few hundred miles north of where it should be. Back
in the days when Renoir came to paint the shimmering green and purple shade
of the pine trees, it was accessible only by boat or a cobbled causeway that
was submerged at high tide. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can still
cross the Passage du Gois, but there’s a bridge if you don’t want to get the
car wet. The site is in an idyllic forest of ilex, pine and mimosa set slap
bang on the beach. The town of Noirmoutier is famous for its saltpans,
medieval castle and wonderful romanesque church – from a vantage point close
to the camp site, you can look across a flat water meadow and a sheltered
bay at the town silhouetted against the setting sun.
www.camping-indigo.com; from
£9.80/£2.50/£1.20 (ages 2-7)
LE CLAPAS, Vallon Pont d’Arc: Le Clapas might sound like the kind
of thing you’d do to a Ricky Martin track, but clapas is an
old Occitan name for a pile of stones. In this case, the stones come from
the camp site’s private beach on the Ardèche – the robust rivulet that
forged the beautiful gorges of this area and gave the département its name.
Canoeing and kayaking are the big draws here, and there’s something for
everyone, from gentle stretches of water for beginners and drifters to
feisty rapids for adrenaline fiends. The pièce de résistance,
though, is the wonderful Pont d’Arc, a natural 200ft stone arch over the
river, which comes with a handy beach if you’d rather just stand and stare.
It’s the jewel of the Gorges de l’Ardèche, the range of
limestone cliffs that make the area so spectacular.
www.camping-le-clapas.com;
from £10 for two
PEACE AND GLORIOUS QUIET
TIPIS AT FOLBEIX, Folbeix: a British couple, Nigel and Sheila Harding,
have created a haven of environmentally conscious living in a coppiced wood
deep in a forest in La Creuse, at the heart of France. Half a dozen
snow-white tepees, each raised on a platform of Forestry Stewardship
Council-certified wood, are illuminated at night by candle lanterns and
solar-powered lights. Each is set in its own slice of woodland: some of the
guests disappear into it at the beginning of the week and barely come out
again. But it’s worth wandering up to the Hardings’ house, if only to help
yourself to fresh herbs from the garden or to sample one of Sheila’s wide
range of homemade jams, chutneys and brews of varying descriptions. La
Creuse is a secret little place, and still off most people’s holiday radar.
Make the most of it. Just don’t tell too many people.
www.vacanesdetipienfrance.com;£260 per week for a family of four
MAS DE LA FARGASSA, Amélie-les-Bains: a narrow mountain road with
a precipitous drop leads to this organic fruit farm in the Languedoc hills.
Not for the fainthearted, the road deters the casual visitor and ensures
that the place is disturbed only by the swish of the leaves of holly and
plum trees, as well as apples, gooseberries and pears, all straining at
their branches and vines to get at the sun. Set in 600 acres and built
around an old forge that was abandoned in the 1930s, the site has a range of
accommodation options, from its own Dutch-designed tents for hire to a quiet
gîte and even a converted pigsty. Or, of course, you can pitch your own
canvas by the stream or on a terrace overlooking the garden. If you fancy a
break from organic French fruit, the site is so close to Spain, you can pop
over the border hills for a tapas lunch.
www.fargassa.com; £6.10pp per night
for your own tent (not in July or August); £343 per week for a fully
equipped tent
CAMPING DE L’OUYSSE, Lacave: camping à la ferme (farm
camping) offers all the rural escapism you could need. At this site in the
Dordogne, the dark-green River Ouysse flows past the farmhouse under a leafy
tunnel of walnut and poplar trees. There’s a tightrope bridge leading to
fantastic hikes through the woods, or you can follow the river to the
spectacular fortified village of Rocamadour. And the great thing is, you can
camp anywhere you like on the site, and strict legislation limits the number
of tents to a dozen at a time. So, do you go for the cherry and plum
orchard, the river, the foot of the mountain or the meadows? It’s that
stressful here.
00 33 5 65 32 63 01; £3.10pp, children £1.60
STILL NOT IMPRESSED? TRY THESE
BELREPAYRE TRAILER PARK, near Mirepoix: a trailer park? Oh, yes, and
what trailers they are – real-deal American Airstreams. There’s a 1972
Sovereign model, picked up from a nudist colony in Florida, a 1970s
Tradewind, from New Mexico, and a 1950s Silver Streak Clipper, from Arizona.
All are kitted out in retro fabrics, with knitted cushions, eight-track
music systems and assorted paraphernalia picked up at flea markets. Tents
are welcome, too. The site is run by Perry Balfour, younger half of a former
father-and-son touring clown troupe, who also trades as DJ Bobby Lotion when
he spins a bit of disco in the evening. Perry reckons that people lose 35
years when they come here, which, if true, will leave younger visitors
feeling deliciously gaga.
www.airstreameurope.com;
Airstreams from £57 per night, tents from £13.70 for two
LES ROULOTTES DE LA SERVE, Ouroux: roulottes (Romany caravans)
are very much in vogue with campers throughout France, and these three are
tucked away in an Arcadian farm setting amid the Beaujolais region’s
vineyards and farms. The owners were offered the first roulotte by
the operator of a local merry-go-round and, after travels through Africa and
India, they ended up with two more. Choose between Des Amoureux, with a
nostalgic 1950s interior that sleeps two, Des Manèges, which has more of a
1920s feel, and can sleep four, or Des Etoiles, the biggest, which is
decorated with sequined cushions and natty trinkets from the Orient, and
also sleeps four. All come with breakfast included, taken in the gypsy
comfort of your caravan or in the owners’ fabulously rustic dining area.
www.lesroulottes.com; from £36
per night for two
KOTA CABANA, Brûlon: Jean-Claude Guillou, a retired French
businessman and owner of an exquisite little guesthouse in a Second Empire
chateau near Le Mans, had often wondered what to do with the two ancient
sequoia trees and the Lebanese cedar in his garden. The answer? Build a
treehouse. Chancing upon a Finnish designer who told him about Lapland kotas
– the pine buildings used for everything from saunas to fish smokeries –
Jean-Claude set about building his Kota Cabana up in the trees. Up a winding
wooden staircase, and behind a hobbit-like front door, it’s a mixture of
Scandinavian design and French élan, all with the glorious smell of
untreated pine resin. And, with room for only two, it’s a romantic retreat,
popular with honeymooners. From the platform, the view takes in
Jean-Claude’s 1933 burgundy Citroën and the chateau’s extensive grounds – at
the bottom of the garden, you can just make out the two cavorting llamas
that he keeps as pets.
www.chateau-enclos.com; £99 per
night
Travel brief
By tunnel: Eurotunnel (0870 535 3535, www.eurotunnel.com)
has return Folkestone-Calais crossings from £98 for a car and passengers.
By sea: short crossings from Dover to Calais and Dunkirk are operated
by P&O Ferries (0871 664 5645, www.poferries.com),
SeaFrance (0871 663 2546, www.seafrance.com)
and Norfolkline (0870 870 1020, www.norfolkline.com),
with returns starting at about £60 for a car and passengers. There are
several routes to Brittany and Normandy from the south coast: Brittany
Ferries (0870 907 6103, www.brittany-ferries.
com), for example, has return crossings from Portsmouth to Caen and
Poole to Cherbourg, from £96 for a car and passengers. Or try Transmanche
Ferries (0800 917 1201, www.transmancheferries.com)
or LD Lines (0844 576 8836, www.ldlines.co.uk).
Irish Ferries (0818 300400, www.irishferries.com) runs ferries from Dublin
and Rosslare to Roscoff and Cherbourg; from €258 return. Or try Celtic Link
Ferries (0844 576 8834, www.celticlinkferries.com).
By air: airlines serving French regional airports include British
Airways (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com), Air
France (0870 142 4343, www.airfrance.co.uk),
EasyJet (www.easyjet.com), Jet2 (0871
226 1737, www.jet2.com), BMI Baby (0871
224 0224, www.bmibaby.co.uk) and
Flybe (0871 700 2000, www.flybe.com).
Closer to home
Here are 10 UK camp sites far from the madding crowds, courtesy of the chaps
at Cool Camping:
- Lundy Island, Devon Brassy Atlantic camping on this granite outcrop, managed
by the Landmark Trust and limited to 40 campers at a time (www.lundyisland.co.uk).
- Orchard Camping, Suffolk Two hours from London, this simple paddock allows
traditional campfires, giving that real backwoodsman feel (01728 746170).
- Turner Hall Farm, Cumbria It’s remote here – raw camping between grassy
knolls, rocky outcrops, scratchy bracken and dry-stone walls (01229 716420).
- Beadnell Bay, Northumberland This flat, well-tended site on a deserted
stretch of coastline lies between two castles – Bamburgh and Dunstanburgh (www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk).
- Glengoulandie, Perthshire Fringed by a deer farm, this eco-site is big on
bio-sewerage and recycling (www.glengoulandie.co.uk).
- Camusdarach, Inverness-shire Landscaped by grazing sheep, with sea on one
side and hills on the other, this friendly place is the perfect detox from
modern life (www.camusdarach.com).
- Bladnoch Distillery, Wigtown Garden camping by the river that feeds the
distillery that makes the whisky that makes this a fascinating place to stay
in the neglected southwest of Scotland (www.bladnoch.co.uk).
-Mynydd Mawr, Gwynedd Enjoy sunset strolls at this rugged site on the western
tip of the Llyn peninsula, sheltered from the ripping winds (www.
aberdaroncaravanandcampingsite.co.uk ).
- Wern Isaf, Denbighshire A working farm overlooking the Dee Valley, Wern Isaf
has the Scooby-Doo ruins of Castell Dinas Bran behind it (www.wernisaf.supanet.com
).
- Llanthony Priory, Monmouthshire There’s riding and trekking here, but,
facilities-wise, just a tap and toilets. Beautiful (www.llanthony.co.uk).